For his second Carven collection, Serge Ruffieux chose to highlight the chic and adventurous Parisian woman he had imagined in his previous line. This fall, the Carven woman is exactly how Carmen de Tommaso, the founder of the brand in 1945, had imagined her: mostly wearing calf-length dresses and skirts, sometimes daring a men’s suit that is fitted to her slender figure. As a traveler, she mixes shapes, materials and influences from countries visited to compose her own unique look.
Serge Ruffieux started his career at Christian Dior where he took over from Raf Simons after his departure in 2015 and the latter’s influence is visible. The folded dresses and tops create a whole new look: young, original and neat.
Carmen de Tommaso founded the Carven brand in 1945, after the Second World War. The label was initially intended for small and petite women who struggled to find clothes their size. Noticed for its first collection thanks to a green and white striped light cotton dress, the label quickly found its place within the fashion upheaval of the time. So much so that in 1946, the company Carven Parfums was founded and its first essence, Ma Griffe, named after the previously mentioned dress, was launched. The brand’s fresh and easy-to-wear fashion was a success and the label continued expanding its activities with scarves in 1955, then jewels in 1968. But after a peak in the 70s, the brand’s success gradually started declining. After many buyouts and several changes within creative direction, revival came in 2009 with Guillaume Henry’s arrival. Before joining the company he worked for Givenchy where he preceded Riccardo Tisci. The designer was missioned to transform the Parisian label into an affordable ready-to-wear brand for thirty-year-olds. With Claudine collars, skirts, short suits and mixed prints, Carven quickly emerged as the new fashionable brand, displaying a mischievous, romantic and intellectual silhouette. The romance lasted four years, until Guillaume Henry’s departure. He was replaced by the Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial duo. In January 2017, Serge Ruffieux became head of creative direction.
Serge Ruffieux was born in Switzerland and started studying at the Geneva School of Art and Design, before flying to Milan where he joined the Moschino brand teams. A few years later, he returned to Paris, where he joined Sonia Rykiel to assist the founder of the Parisian label before briefly working for Cacharel. The designer really became famous when he started working at Dior in 2008, under the John Galliano era. After being appointed studio director upon Raf Simons’ arrival, he will now be acting as Creative Director with Lucie Meier for four seasons following the Belgian designer’s departure.