What exactly happens in a fashion designer’s studio? This season, Jeremy Scott pulls back the curtain to reveal the process at Moschino. A few seconds before the show, Scott gets a phone call from Gigi Hadid, telling him he’s late for his own show. “But all I have are sketches!“ he replies, in a panic. The top model tells him in no uncertain terms to sort something out, and fast. This explains why the 66 looks in the show have an unfinished feel… at first glance. Eighties cuts that owe more to haute couture than ready-to-wear, matching tights and high theatre to finish. This unexpected collection paid tribute to Jeremy Scott’s sketches, quite literally. Motifs of the sketches drawn at the start of the season, the promise of a new collection at the end of the journey, featured prominently. The frenetic schedule of collections and pre-collections that designers are expected to respect, was also called into question, as was the impossibility of finishing everything on time. Franco Moschino was never shy to criticise the fashion microcosm, and for SS94, he featured a shirt that said “For Fashion Victims Only”. Jeremy Scott follows in the footsteps of the label’s founder with a collection that reflects the air du temps and its constraints, with an extra dose of cool.
The Moschino brand was founded by Franco Moschino in 1983. Early on, the Italian label became renowned for its irreverence. The Creative Director is a fantastic architect of clothing; however, he is also known for his acerbic sense of humor, which opposes the fashion system’s madness and failings. Jackets saying, "Waist of Money" on the waist, a shirt with extra-long sleeves tied on the back and saying, "For Fashion Victims Only", all these pieces made a lot of noise. Very quickly, the brand expanded its activities. In 1987, the Love Moschino line and a first fragrance were launched. Two novelties that were followed by the advent of the Moschino Cheap and Chic diffusion line. In 1994, following Franco Moschino’s death, Rossela Jardini, his former assistant took over the creative direction of the House. She was replaced by Jeremy Scott in October 2013.
Jeremy Scott, who was born in 1975 in Missouri, always knew he wanted to become a fashion designer. In 1992, he moved to New York to study at the Pratt Institute, where he graduated in 1996. As he was convinced that his future was in Paris, he moved there and took on a series of small jobs. He became weary so a year later he decided to launch his eponymous brand and presented his first collection. The fashion designer immediately met relative success. He then moved to Los Angeles in 2001, after winning the ANDAM Award in 2000. In 2002, he began his first collaboration with the sportswear brand Adidas. Meanwhile, he continued to develop his brand, which slowly became famous. In October 2013, he was appointed Creative Director of the Italian House Moschino, while still managing his own label.