From the choice of materials to the weight of the curves, the sobriety of the blacks and the minimalist plain designs, style according to Theyskens is a construction that engineers an outfit, bringing it remarkable strength and appeal. His take on “gothic cool” manages to simultaneously borrow from classic Directoire style and the retro-futuristic world of Blade Runner, a key source of inspiration for the designer’s work.
Originally from Belgium, Olivier Theyskens has always known that he would become a fashion designer. At 20, after a brief stint at the La Cambre National School of Visual Arts, he presented his first statement collection with an indisputably Gothic feel. It was an immediate success. Madonna became his first ambassador, and two years later, his Spring/Summer collection was being acclaimed by the fashion press. Vogue magazine hailed the designer's presentation of translucent complexions and exposed bodies as one of the "25 Most Unforgettable Runway Shows of the '90s". In 2000, he won a Venus de la Mode award, and in 2002 became Artistic Director of Rochas, breathing new life into the label. Continuing to confound expectations, in 2006 he took on the artistic direction of Nina Ricci and received an award from the CFDA before joining the ranks of Theory four years later. Olivier Theyskens now works for himself, and was appointed Artistic Director of the Azzaro house in 2020.