Riccardo Tisci’s first collection for Burberry is a game changer. The Italian designer has come up with an inclusive collection, aimed at mothers and daughters, fathers and sons. The “Kingdom” line reflects Tisci’s exploration of British society and the century-old fashion house’s archive. A real boon for the brand’s established customers and new fans alike.
The iconic House Check which was diligently brought back to centre stage by the previous creative director Christopher Bailey, takes a back seat this season, with a few low-key appearances lining coats or as a stripe on blouses. In terms of logos, top billing goes to the TB monogram, taken from the archive and updated by Peter Saville, that features in various iterations on ready-to-wear pieces. Riccardo Tisci takes a step back from the street-inspired designs of his predecessor, and reinjects the brand with some old-school sophistication, from pussycat bows to prim skirts. The past is still present of course, and the iconic Burberry trench coat gets an update with ring piercing, as does a prim, trompe-l’œil shirt. Pumps come with masking tape detail and bags are worn around the waist with a chic chain. But let’s talk about the accessories. From the tiny Jessie card case to the TB handbag (classic alert!), not to mention the Horseferry, a new vista of possibilities just opened up for Burberry customers. A good start.
In 1856, Thomas Burberry, then a young store apprentice, founded Burberry. The house’s core business was coats, which the British designer tried to perfect to offer his customers comfort and protection. In 1879, he started making his own inventions and developed gabardine, a breathable and waterproof fabric. The brand became increasingly renowned and in 1912, Burberry invented and patented the trench coat, which was worn exclusively by military officers at the time. As it was light and practical, the overcoat soon became the British soldiers’ uniform. Throughout the twentieth century, the English label continued to dress explorers, such as Sir Ernest Shackleton and aviator Betty Kirby-Green.
Since, Burberry has diversified and strengthened its handbag, designer shoes and men and women’s ready-to-wear offer.
Born in 1974 in Italy, Riccardo Tisci began his career as a fashion designer at Design Istituto d'Arte Applicata in Cantu before moving to London to study at Central Saint Martins School in 1999. He became successful early on and started working at Puma. He then focused on his eponymous brand and presented his first collection in Milan in 2004. The following year, he joined Givenchy as creative designer, then resigned in 2017. In 2018, Riccardo Tisci was appointed creative designer at Burberry replacing Christopher Bailey.