While waiting for the official arrival of Serge Ruffieux (whose first collection, Resort 2018, will be released a little later this year), the Carven design studio has chosen to go back to its origins for its Fall/Winter 2017-18 line. Studded boots and moccasins, but also slightly compensated sneakers are the Carven shoes of choice for Parisian women this season. As for bags, the Germain pouch will seduce light travelers who want to remain stylish.
Carmen de Tommaso founded the Carven brand in 1945, after the Second World War. The label was initially intended for small and petite women who struggled to find clothes their size. Noticed for its first collection thanks to a green and white striped light cotton dress, the label quickly found its place within the fashion upheaval of the time. So much so that in 1946, the company Carven Parfums was founded and its first essence, Ma Griffe, named after the previously mentioned dress, was launched. The brand’s fresh and easy-to-wear fashion was a success and the label continued expanding its activities with scarves in 1955, then jewels in 1968. But after a peak in the 70s, the brand’s success gradually started declining. After many buyouts and several changes within creative direction, revival came in 2009 with Guillaume Henry’s arrival. Before joining the company he worked for Givenchy where he preceded Riccardo Tisci. The designer was missioned to transform the Parisian label into an affordable ready-to-wear brand for thirty-year-olds. With Claudine collars, skirts, short suits and mixed prints, Carven quickly emerged as the new fashionable brand, displaying a mischievous, romantic and intellectual silhouette. The romance lasted four years, until Guillaume Henry’s departure. He was replaced by the Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial duo. In January 2017, Serge Ruffieux became head of creative direction.
Serge Ruffieux was born in Switzerland and started studying at the Geneva School of Art and Design, before flying to Milan where he joined the Moschino brand teams. A few years later, he returned to Paris, where he joined Sonia Rykiel to assist the founder of the Parisian label before briefly working for Cacharel. The designer really became famous when he started working at Dior in 2008, under the John Galliano era. After being appointed studio director upon Raf Simons’ arrival, he will now be acting as Creative Director with Lucie Meier for four seasons following the Belgian designer’s departure.