Shayne Oliver designed a collection as guest designer at Helmut Lang and pulled out all the stops. The 2018 Spring-Summer collection is a reboot of the founding designer’s sexy irreverence. The trousers are wide, the skirts extra short or, very long, with long splits and the necklines are so plunging that they practically cease to exist. But there is a very good reason for this, Shayne Oliver the models on the runway were carrying the new Bra bag, inspired by the item of clothing of the same name. Carried by hand or worn on the chest, it is the most talked-about accessory from
Helmut Lang this season. Other accessories stood out also, including the belts, a throwback to the noughties with the name of the brand written in big letters.
In 1986, Helmut Lang founded his own-name brand in Paris. At the time, the Austrian designer had just taken part in an exhibition at the Centre Georges Pompidou, which made setting up in France all the easier. his minimalist, sexy designs soon became the emblem of the nineties.
The brand branched out early with an underwear line in 1995, a line of jeans in 1996 and its first perfume in 1999. Up until 1998, the year it became the first brand to stream the show online on the Internet, the Helmut Lang brand presented its collections in Paris. It then moved to New York, where it shook up the calendar and brought New York to the top of the fashion week list.
In 1999, the fashion designer sold 51% of shares to the Prada group before retiring in 2005. A year later, the brand was sold to the Japanese group Link Theory. In 2007, Michael and Nicole Colovos took over the creative direction of the fashion house and remained there until February 2014. In March 2017, Isabella Burley, ex editor-in-chief at Dazed & Confused, took over as “editor in residence”, a new concept that enabled her to hire a number of artistic directors according to the brand’s needs and projects. In September, she invited Shayne Oliver, founder of the Hood by Air brand to design a collection from Helmut Lang, a one-shot that will be revisited each year with a different designer.
Shayne Oliver was born in 1988 in Minnesota. Raised between Trinidad and Brooklyn, the future fashion designer trained at New York University and at the Fashion Institute of Technology. He gave up college to found his own label, Hood by Air in 2006, when T-shirts he designed for friends began to make a mark. The brand made a name for itself early on, and became a headliner at New York Fashion Week, with nominations at the CFDA Awards and competing in the Prix LVMH. In 2016, Shayne Oliver was the first fashion designer chosen by the Helmut Lang brand to design a capsule collection as guest designer. The 2017 Spring-Summer line which was presented in September 2016, brought the brand back to life.