Collection Paco Rabanne
Was it time for Julien Dossena to break away from the futuristic aesthetic of Paco Rabanne? This season, the designer has chosen to look to the past, drawing inspiration from old Hollywood movies, Marlene Dietrich, and 30s fashion, as well as ceremonial and formal dress. But that's not to say the label is abandoning its roots. The founding designer's love for chain mail still finds its place here, reinterpreted with a twist on dresses and tops, and even in the form of extravagant jewels.
In 1966, Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo, better known as Paco Rabanne, launched his brand with the catwalk show "12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials", a heavily embellished collection with acetate discs, pieces of mirror, and even aluminium. The brand quickly made its name as a pioneer of modern fashion, with its designer pushing the boundaries of clothing and style.
In 1968, the brand achieved international recognition when it designed Jane Fonda's costumes for the film Barbarella, and the same year Paco Rabanne signed a perfume distribution licence with Puig.
In 1969, Paco Rabanne took his reputation to the next level with a range of handbags whose eye-catching silhouette remains iconic to this day.
If Julien Dossena is the man behind the revival of Paco Rabanne's ready-to-wear line, accessories can be credited to another well-known name in fashion: Charlotte Chesnais. Born in 1985, at age 17 the jewellery designer left her native region of Sarthe for Paris, where she trained at Studio Berçot. She kicked off her career at Ungaro, then owned by Vincent Darré. Then, aged just 19 years old, she joined Balenciaga as an assistant to Nicolas Ghesquière, who quickly entrusted her with the artistic direction of the label's jewellery lines. After nine years at the label, she launched her eponymous fashion house in 2015, while continuing to design the jewellery and handbags for the brand Paco Rabanne. In the process, she was awarded the ANDAM Fashion Accessories Prize.